Fuses
are a deliberate weak link in a circuit. The strands of wire used in
fuses are thinner than those used in the rest of the wiring circuit.
When a fault occurs in your wiring or a piece of equipment, either
through overloading, through a short or ‘earthing out’, there
will be a significant increase in power through the cables. This
causes the thinner fuse wire to rapidly heat and melt, quickly
breaks the circuit, switching off the power.
The
limit at which a fuse ‘blows’ is determined by the thickness of
the wire running through it. Different thickness fuse wires blow at
different levels of power. Exceeding the maximum rated for that fuse
wire will cause the wire to break. Modern installations make use of
‘circuit breakers’ instead of the old style fuse wires. These
devices will detect an increase in the current and automatically
switch off the power. The advantage of these devices is that they can
simply be reset by pressing a button.
Incorrect
value fuses are a hazard, not only to the equipment they are
protecting but also to your health. This socket will have to be
replaced and the wiring checked – the equipment which was plugged
into it is most probably no good now unless it had an extra internal
protection fuse which may have saved it.
Handy
Fuse Chart for 3 pin plugs:
Power
Consumption
|
Fuse
|
|||
<230W (e.g.
bedside lamp)
|
1
Amp
|
|||
231w
– 690w (e.g. stereo)
|
3
Amp
|
|||
691
– 1150w (e.g. Vacuum)
|
5
Amp
|
|||
>1151w
(e.g. heater, bread maker)
|
13
Amp
|
It
is very sensible to keep a selection of fuses somewhere handy –
somewhere you can find in the dark is good. A packet of common fuses
doesn't cost much and one day you'll be glad you got them – I
promise. Oh and a torch – a working torch.
Now,
to replace the fuse in a plug – Loosen the centre screw from the
pin side of the plug (do not loosen the two (if there are any) close
to the point where the cable goes into the plug). Remove the plug
back to expose the wire connections and the fuse.
Take
a small screwdriver and lever out the fuse from its grips – if a
terminal comes up with the fuse, just push it back into place. Always
replace fuses with the correct rating/value fuse and certainly don't
ever be tempted to use a higher rated fuse to “stop the thing keep
blowing”. If the fuse does keep blowing, this is telling you there
is something wrong – either with the equipment or with the wiring –
you really must get them checked. Before you screw the top back onto
the plug just check the terminals holding the wires are correct to
the diagram above and there are no stray strands of wire and that the
terminal screws are tight. Once the back is on – plug it back in,
turn the kettle on, have a cuppa and a custard cream – job well
done. Oh one last thing on plug fuses – the plug will probably say
on it “13A” this is what the plug is rated to – not what fuse
should go in it – always use the correct rating fuse for your
equipment.
Sadly
I have run out of space to cover fusebox / consumer unit fuses this
week.
Next
week we shall repair a blown fuse in a fusebox.
Keep
safe.
Dave
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